California native Brandon Murphy knew as a teen that he wanted to work with clothing and style.

Although the term “designer” wasn’t exactly what he meant, life eventually showed that design would be his specialty.

During his time in school in Atlanta at the University Center (AUC) starting at Clark Atlanta, he acquired specialized sewing abilities thanks to the school’s fashion program. He transferred to Morehouse College (his and his mother’s first choice of higher-ed institutions) to study art history and business, all while continuing to cut across the adjoining campuses to sit in on the fashion classes, thanks to Ms. Batey, a professor of fashion. The first dress the then-newbie designer conceptualized in college was so intricately made that Clark’s homecoming fashion show accepted it. If you need to know how significant that is, ask any HBCU student.

On Feb. 13th, 2013, he sold his vehicle for $4000 and purchased a one-way ticket to New York City, crashing on various friends’ couches as he sorted out a plan to get his life together. “I could’ve asked my family for help, but I wanted to do it on my own,” Murphy admits.

Following several retail roles in which he gained additional skills, business practices, valuable industry experience, and clientele, he set up B|M|C or The Brandon Murphy Collection.

His attention to detail and quick two-week turnaround (instead of industry standard three to four) has provided opportunity for him to create and design for Colin Kaepernick, Tyler Lepley, Jeff Goldblum, Jennifer Lawrence, Tony Parker, Timbaland, Kendrick Sampson, Lizzo and New York Mayor Eric Adams.

This is your chance; who is Brandon Murphy?

I still do not know completely; it’s ever-evolving, but Brandon Murphy is a detail-oriented fabric and fit-obsessed individual. I am a lover of travel, good food, and dressing well. I adore my imagination and the escapism of fashion, which gives you the freedom to dress however you want and become anyone you want. I’m very sensitive and aware of what’s going on around the world because I’m a Pisces. Fashion serves as a comfort blanket for me, protecting me from being overwhelmed by everything.

13 years ago, you were in Atlanta as an undergraduate student at Morehouse College; I recall then you were working on your label. What has this process been like?

2010 was a very fascinating time, ha. A lot of interesting options for clothing and hair at the time. As I think about it, that process was off and on for me then because I’m a dreamer. I envision stuff in my mind in such vast ways that I’m constantly saying, “I want this to happen, that to happen, oh, and this too.” This makes things difficult at times when you are trying to put your dreams into action but don’t always have the resources to do so. All things considered, I utilized what I knew; I found my way into styling because I knew how to assemble clothes and develop looks for people. That led me to work for brands starting at Suitsupply, the Soho location on Broome Street. Then I went over to Berluti and Celine where I cultivated a clientele through styling. Many of the people I styled back then are clients of my brand, Brandon Murphy Collection.

The process has been arduous because you need money and resources, and going back to 2010, I was exclusively centered around womenswear. To be perfectly honest, I didn’t see my story being told in Atlanta, which is why I would tell you “It’s coming, it’s coming,” I was sketching and developing ideas and figuring out how to get to New York.

What direction is the brand leaning into now? Furthermore, the fact that pajamas and penny loafers are the only items available to purchase has me curious about the product.

It’s mainly menswear now, but some of my biggest clients are women who request skirts, suits, and the like. Because some of my clients are lawyers and doctors, working with women, especially professionals, is a pleasure for me. When they buy a suit, they also often want a matching skirt and blouse, but the unique part about that is they’re usually willing to give me free rein. “Let’s see what you can do,” is the sentiment, and we have created some stunning clothing.

The majority of B | M | C is custom-made, as are some of my designs for pajamas. However, as I expand into ready-to-wear over the next few months, I’ve made the pajamas and loafers available for purchase to provide some offering.

Speaking of the Loafers, I love the unique detail or adjustment you’ve used to help them stand apart. What made you think of that?

I’ve been wearing loafers since high school, and even before that, in middle school, my uncle would often give me the clothes he no longer wanted, i.e., this pair of Ferragamo loafers. I knew the brand but didn’t know much about the design house. I always wore penny loafers and would place a penny in the slot because I felt it was good luck. That said, I decided to partner with this family-owned factory in Portugal to develop a classic shoe with a modern touch to it, and my idea was to add more coins, so we have three spaces with custom laser-carved coins that say BMC.

I’d love to hear about your work with Colin Kaepernick.

I had about seven days to design several items for him for his Netflix special called “Colin In Black & White”, which consisted of four long black coats, two grey suits, and two black suits. This was happening during the pandemic, which you can imagine wasn’t a painless project, but it allowed me to see what my capacity was as it pertains to my business and production line. It was a very validating feeling to execute that job on such a high level and to complete that job when all odds were against me. Everything was shut down, and my business is international, so the shipping was a feat; plus, all our fittings took place via Zoom because I wasn’t allowed on set.

Two months ago, we observed Juneteenth, and I recall when you and your friends organized a march of suit-clad Black men in 2020. – I heard a lot of criticism from our community about how the suit-clad march was “performative.” I’d love to hear how you responded to those comments.

I saw those remarks. Individuals are continuously going to have a comment. The suiting wasn’t performative; it was a formality because we were honoring George Floyd. It’s an image of unity in its purest form. Everyone in attendance felt the same way and wanted to come out and be a part of a positive movement coming from a loving place. Thousands of people showed up in suits, and older men brought suits for those who may not have had one to wear and were helping people tie their ties. When you celebrate someone, you dress up and you dress very well.

I want to mention that the George Floyd demonstration has now evolved into an annual Juneteenth 5K marathon routing through the historic Seneca Village in Central Park. The proceeds go towards building a Community Center in Harlem. I encourage those who criticized to lace up their running shoes and join us!

The imagery on your website and the suits I’ve seen you in remind me of Tom Ford. As a designer, does he have any influence on you?

Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld are also big sources of inspiration for me, but Tom Ford is probably my favorite. I recall getting my first Tom Ford blazer that my old boss gifted me; I turned it inside out to see how it was created, along with all the seams and canvassing. I love how he expresses his work; it is luxurious, sexy, and fun.

When sketching in your studio, who or what do you picture?

I frequently reflect on my grandfather; he was a significant style motivation for me. Sometimes I imagine my life in a particular way. For instance, I imagine myself traveling toward the south of France and considering what I would want to wear. What would I want to wear if I were going to break up with someone? What might be the best outfit; that has jumped into my head, ha. It’s several different fantasies; I contemplate life around the attire rather than individuals explicitly except if I am designing for someone.

I saw a glimpse of denim on your website. Can you talk more about that?

Yes, I love the idea of custom denim, so I’ve begun offering it within my line. Because I am so tall, finding jeans that fit well and were the right length was difficult for me. It’s one reason I got into custom apparel since I have long arms and legs, finding the right fit off the rack was troublesome. I’ve joined forces with this factory in Japan that produces this tech fabric that has a touch of stretch and doesn’t wrinkle, so it’s a pleasant texture that you can wear on a plane since it’s super comfortable. The custom jeans are adjustable, and they will be available in different shades of denim based on the look the client wants and will start at $199.

Where are you hoping to take your brand as you move forward? Do you want to be this notable designer, or do you prefer a more low-profile business for those in the know?

I want to be a respected designer. Fame and the like would be exciting, but I want to design with substance. People who come to B | M | C will be able to purchase exquisite clothing that is not available anywhere else. Yes, I would love to have stores all over the world, but I don’t want to contribute to an industry that is wasteful. I find that doing made-to-measure is somewhat sustainable. Even as I venture into ready-to-wear, I won’t be producing in mass quantities, but I do want to expand and become a household name.

Last but not least, in addition to jeans, pajamas, and loafers, what new products will BMC offer?

Eyewear, leather goods and ready to wear. I’m also exploring different details and the usage of various fabrics. There is more, but you’ll have to see.

bmcstudio.com