Perhaps no one knows better the challenges facing young designers than Julie Gilhart. During her years as fashion director of Barneys New York, her own consulting business and the time since she partnered with Tomorrow Consulting as Chief Development Officer and President, she has mentored and guided over countless designers and brands. This Paris Fashion Week, seven lucky American talents got to be the latest to benefit from her wisdom and steady guide for building a fashion brand.
Tomorrow opened its second Paris showroom in a four-story hotel particulier in Paris’s fifth arrondissement at the nearby Sorbonne – welcoming these young Americans to display their latest collections.
Among the young Americans: Christopher John Rogers; the buzzy designer who counts Cardi B., Michelle Obama and Tracee Ellis Ross as fans; Danielle Frankel, who is repositioning the bridal category with off-white separates that can be worn to the alter and beyond; Reese Cooper, who is big on Americana and vintage-inspired pieces with 21st century technique.
Also, there were Alejandra Alonso Rojas, whose eco-dyed collection made its debut at New York Fashion Week last month; Private Policy by Haoran Li and Siying Qu; Barragán by Mexico City native Victor Barragán, and Lou Dallas, by Raffaella Hanley.
Many of them had never shown in or even been to Paris, and this season was understandably quieter than usual as a result of fewer international buyers amid Coronavirus concerns. All reported, though, that the week was going well for them.
At Barragán, the chance to show in Europe allowed them face-to-face meetings with creatives.
“There are so many stylists and European press who want to work with us and they can’t get to New York, so this is an opportunity to see collection in person up close. It helps as a brand to be seen here too.” said the designer.
Private Policy’s Li also said that it gives them a chance to work directly with stores that aren’t U.S.-based. “It’s been pretty good as we currently have more European and Asian stockists than in the US. We sell at Selfridge’s and Printemps with more coming next season so it’s good for us to connect with those buyers.”
By providing support, shared services and space, Gilhart says the designers can focus on other aspects of brand building which in today’s climate carries no formula. Her advice: “The past formula – getting great publicity and stories— helps, but today, it needs to be unique. Do something that no one is doing.”
For Christopher John Rogers, being was in Paris was a first. He was able to connect with New Yorkers who didn’t have a chance to view the collection in person during New York Fashion Week. “A store in London that I am fan of but would have never reached out to, made a buy,” Rogers added. “I didn’t think they would be interested in my work at all that because it wasn’t what they do.”
Paris and New York aren’t officially sister cities, but they both have the power to make fashion dreams come true.
