Taking to Instagram last weekend, CFDA Member Aurora James challenged businesses and retailers to commit to buying 15 percent of their products from Black-owned businesses, “So many of your businesses are built on Black spending power,” she wrote. “So many of your stores are set up in Black communities. So many of your sponsored posts are seen on Black feeds. This is the least you can do for us. We represent 15 percent of the population and we need to represent 15 percent of your shelf space.”
The designer shares how she is working to make this a reality and how we can all stand with her and support.
How are you doing?
Tough question.
What have you been doing to keep your community informed over the past week with the news of the killing of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, Ahmaud Arbery, and many others?
I am trying to stay as informed as possible on all of the changes that have to happen with legislation and funding in order to lower the rate of police brutality. I’m also focusing on my mental emotional health and wellbeing, while also examining myself and the people around me to figure out what we can do to help in all elements of our lives.
How did you conceive of the #15PercentPledge?
Black people spend billions of dollars in this country every year at major retailers but represent an insignificant fraction of how those companies allocate their purchasing power. We are calling for equal representation on shelves and hangers.
Tell us why you chose to highlight businesses like Target, Home Depot and Wholefoods to sign the pledge?
I also highlighted businesses specific to the fashion industry such as Net-a-Porter, Saks, ShopBop, and Revolve. We are highlighting major retailers because they have the most power when it comes to influence. Asking these to allocate 15 percent of their shelf space to Black owned businesses will mean they will need to seek out and invest in brands they may have previously turned a blind eye to. But having their support will give more credibility to those Black-owned businesses when it comes to seeking additional investment. Walking into a VC meeting with a purchase order from Shopbop is helpful.
How do you plan to advance this conversation with major retailers and push for their commitment?
The first step is asking for commitment. Some retailers are coming to the table, some are not. There are thousands of people who have, in one day, already signed up to push and co-sign for this initiative and that list is only going to keep growing. The longer those businesses choose not to respond, the more deafening their silence will be. And for those who have apprehensions around how they can meet the pledge in their businesses, we are asking them to come to the table so we can help to create that strategy. There are three steps in the approach. First, audit your own business and take stock of where it currently stands. How many of your vendors are majority Black-owned? How much of your purchasing power is being allocated to majority Black-owned businesses? Do your own inventory there. Then, own and accept that data, and define a clear initiative to achieving the 15 percent. Last, set a deadline and commit to the growth. Pledge to commit a minimum of 15 percent and publicly let us know how you anticipate getting there.
How can consumers support the #15PercentPledge and help change the way retailers are currently operating?
This is a grassroots movement. We are asking individuals to sign up and Stand With Us at www.15percentpledge.org or by texting “PLEDGE” to 917-540-8148. Also, please follow, like, and share with us on Instagram at @15percentpledge. We are also asking people to contact tag the brands and businesses that we want to see take the Pledge. And offline, they can start making some phone calls as well.
What are some other ways you would encourage others to support the Black Lives Matter movement?
I encourage white people to show up and speak up. Speak to your families and friends – especially those who live outside of the coastal cities and may have different views. We need to change those views being informed and having honest, vulnerable conversations. I also cannot stress how important it is this year for Americans who are able to vote to do so. Things are already changing. Jaime Harrison, the candidate running against Lindsay Graham in South Carolina pulled ahead in the polls. Amy McGrath in Kentucky is closing the gap between her and Mitch McConnell. Let’s make this happen!
