In his show notes, Joseph Altuzarra explained that he was breaking with the last four seasons – which were about imagination and myth – and looking to Roman Polanski’s cult horror film “Rosemary’s Baby” for inspiration. The collection, he said, “exudes a haunting, enigmatic allure, while anchored in everyday style and pragmatism.”

It was indeed a major departure and new direction for the designer – which should be lauded. Altuzarra played with proportion – think large coats, shrunken shirts – psychedelic hues, and doll-like dress, including the veiled, tiered mini version that closed the show. At times, these clothes felt undone, as well  dark and even unsettling, indeed pushing Altuzarra into a new and exciting territory.