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ON THE BOOKS

“The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973” Offers New Lens on Legendary Moment

September 4, 2024

Marc Karimzadeh

Much has been told about The Battle of Versailles, the legendary fashion show a half century ago that pitted New York and Paris designers against each other, all with the goal to raise funds to restore the storied palace.

Conceived by CFDA Founder Eleanor Lambert, it was a transformative, defining moment for American fashion with the simplicity and modernity of Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows winning over the French designs presented by Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior.

Now, “The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973,” by Live Rocket Founder and CEO Mark Bozek and published by Rizzoli, provides a captivating new perspective on the moment through photographs by Jean-Luce Huré and Bill Cunningham, most previously unseen. These photos capture the behind-the-scenes drama, the clothing, models, and guests at the show.

American models. (© Jean-luce Huré – Courtesy of Bridgeman Images)

“There has been much written about the famous showdown between the French and American designers, as well as two documentaries,” Bozek, who also produced and directed “The Times of Bill Cunningham,” said in the foreword. “Rather than attempting to write a timeline narrative when other more notable journalists and authors have already done so, I’ve chosen to let Bill and Jean-luce’s words and photographs portray a wholly new and fresh perspective.”

Bozek recalled how Cunningham reminisced about this moment.

“That was a once in a lifetime event,” the photographer told him. “You had five of the top French designers at the peak of their career…and [five] Americans at the peak. Especially Stephen Burrows. Here came this young black fella, with dresses like you’ve never seen…on models like the French had never seen. And when they walked out onto that stage—their hair pulled up tight, and a stripped ostrich bone going through [it]—the audience nearly went crazy. And [then] Bethann Hardison shot them her policewomen look. And that’s when they went bananas.”

Alva Chinn in Halston. (Photo by Bill Cunningham)

Josephine Baker in YSL. (Photo by Bill Cunningham)

Pat Cleveland in Stephen Burrows. (© Jean-luce Huré – Courtesy of Bridgeman Images)

Minnelli sang “Bonjour, Paris” with no set or props.

“We were all so scared! We knew our approach was different—bold,” Minnelli recalled in her foreword for the book. “History has proven that the electric spirit of Versailles epitomized and revolutionized art, fashion and beauty in glorious ways.”

“The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973” makes that point in a powerful, visual way.

Bill Cunningham
Liza Minnelli
Mark Bozek
rizzoli
The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973

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