Much has been made about quiet luxury recently – think rich yet inconspicuous wool blazers, logo-less items, and neutral sweaters devoid of much color. Then there’s Zankov.

When designer Henry Zankov launched his label three years ago, his bold colors and bright-patterned knitwear attracted the attention of the industry. Known for his beautiful brushed mohair sweaters, his knits stand out for their playful quality and rich texture.

Zankov began his career working with fashion designers and masters of color like Diane von Furstenberg, Christopher John Rogers, and Tanya Taylor. Now, Zankov aims to bring a new spin to the traditional craft with his beloved eponymous label.

Learn more about the disruptor and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist.

What is your earliest fashion memory? 

My mother always really loved fashion. When I was around nine or 10 years old and we were still living in Saint Petersburg, I remember her wearing these beautiful chocolate brown knee-high boots with a printed silk jersey dress. She was always the chicest woman in our neighborhood, and I was always in awe of her style.  Her love for fashion and how she chose to dress truly inspired a curiosity in me.  

What was your reaction to finding out you were a finalist? 

I received the call on my way home while I was standing on the F train platform. I was overjoyed and elated to learn that I was chosen as one of the finalists. I could not stop smiling for the duration of my way home. I feel extremely grateful and fortunate to have been selected and that my work was acknowledged in this way.

 How would you describe your label?

ZANKOV is a brand that truly focuses on a deep exploration of a visual language with a focus on the bold use of color and patterns combined with intricate and highly specialized knit techniques. Completing the wardrobe through the knitwear lens, I seek to connect with a soulful and emotionally mature audience. My audience has a compelling individual style, rooted in confidence, and our collections are the way they choose to project themselves out into the world. 

What is a specific area of focus you are looking for help with?

It’s been three years since I launched the brand, and we are in a very pivotal stage. The brand is growing in a purposeful and exciting way also thanks to wonderful partners who believed in us from the very beginning like Bergdorf Goodman, McMullen, and Net-A-Porter. As ZANKOV continues to grow it is crucial for me to put energy and resources into the brand’s visibility, our wholesale channels, our DTC platform, and expanding the product offering while nurturing these existing relationships. I am focusing on bolstering our DTC platform and footprint and connecting more deeply with our audience as well as expanding our reach beyond the fashion and art territory.  My markets of focus for potential growth are Japan, Korea, and China while also keep expanding our presence in Europe.

 Is there a goal or milestone you would like to accomplish with your brand in the future? 

In the next year’s timeframe, I plan to move the studio out of my apartment and have a proper space dedicated to my showroom.. Working out from my home made me notice how much people enjoy visiting and gathering in it. ZANKOV is not just about fashion but truly about a community. Every season I have collaborated either with an artist, a designer, or an architect, and this idea of “collaborating” is about bringing creative people into the fold to give a platform for different voices and ideas to come to fruition. Creating a bigger space where all this can come together, and for my community to have an in-person, and more meaningful connection with my collections and my world, would be ideal.

My ultimate goal, and this may be a two-year plan, is to build my own brick-and-mortar retail presence with a ZANKOV store.

The 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists will be announced at the 2023 Vogue Forces of Fashion on October 19th.