Normcore, dadcore, or really great basics—no matter what you call it, finding the extraordinary in the “ordinary” has been a theme running through the Fall 2020 menswear collections. The newest label to strike a cool, easy balance between form, function, and anti-fashion is paa. When co-founders Peter Jurado and Al Verik staged their debut runway show at New York Men’s Fashion Week: Men’s on Tuesday, it also marked the seven-year anniversary since launching the label in 2013.

With each new collection, Jurado and Verik nix a specific reference and instead take a product-centric approach that focuses on fabric and fit. The results look intentionally—and quite refreshingly—chilled out and lo-fi. Nearly everything (including accessories) is made in the USA. But this season, the designers also sourced fabrics from legendary European mills, like fifth-generation Irish mill Magee and Harris Tweed.

A trench was crafted from Cordura (the same nylon fabric used by luggage companies and the military), which Verik said gave the coat a “fun and subtle” twist. He added,  “We’re known for our quiet pieces that you layer with or pair with something noisier.” Case in point: The khaki puffer coat grounded with paa’s own “crew sox” plus Teva-esque Velcro sandals. The more neutral-inclined joggers, quilted vests, and henleys that were worn tied around the waist gave way to the occasional flash of bold color. See the bright yellow knit, paired with simple black corduroys, that opened the show. Beyond the cords, cargos, and sweats, there were ‘90s-style dad-slash-mom jeans—much like the pair Verik wore for his post-show bow, which he took with his daughter in hand. A dadcore fashion moment if there ever was one.

New York Fashion Week: Men’s was made possible with the generous support of Reebok.