Aki Choklat is a renowned London-based footwear and accessories designer and author of design books such as Footwear Design and Menswear Trends. In 2015, College for Creative Studies in Detroit Michigan welcomed Choklat as Chair for a newly-launched Fashion Accessories Design Department. Previously, Choklat led the Master of Trend Forecasting program at Polimoda, and has taught footwear design at several schools, including London College of Fashion and De Montfort University.
As CCS, he has participated as a recurring Selection Committee member for the CFDA + Kenneth Cole Footwear Innovation Award bringing expertise on shoe craft, footwear design innovation, aesthetic, and practicality. We asked him about Detroit, fashion and the state of accessories.
What makes Detroit, Michigan a hub for footwear and accessories design talent?
Established in 1906, College for Creative Studies is a crafts-based design school, which resonates with the strong design and making history of Detroit. Because of the strong design heritage of the city, it made sense to include fashion accessories design as a program at CCS. We are a bit like Bauhaus–doing our own thing, away from the mainstream fashion hubs–which we work to our benefit. The heritage mixed with the location makes Detroit an ideal place to study fashion accessories design.
Based on your international professional career, what traits/skills do you hope to bring to the “American” curriculum?
I wanted to bring more making skills to the curriculum, which is quite common in European schools. We responded to the industry needs and feedback that graduates do not know how to make things. Therefore, we have a strong making culture in the program. You are simply a better designer if you know how things are made. I also wanted to steer away from the commercial way of thinking, and add more individuality and innovation to the mix. I come from a very avant-garde teaching background, which is not necessarily the way to go in the US. I think finding the middle path of wearable, yet innovative, fashion accessories is the way to go.
Spring 2019 is your first graduating cohort. What can the students accomplish to make you feel successful in your role?
My main goal is for the students to start a career after they graduate. Our curriculum is part design, part making, and part business studies. Our curriculum is designed to train the students for a career, whether they work for a large corporation, a smaller brand, or start their own practice.
How do you feel about the state of accessories and footwear in American Fashion?
The U.S. footwear offering is overwhelming with trend-driven variations. There needs to be more innovation and risk-taking, but finding a balance between commerciality and innovation is not easy. A brand also needs to consider sustainability – not only as a challenge, but also as inspiration. Brands should question the purpose through design. I feel that the consumer is ready for something different. However, there are new and interesting directions and concepts in the sneaker culture, with directional sole silhouettes and upper materials. The New York runway collections also gave us some fantastic visions of the future of footwear, especially at Pyer Moss.
