It is loved and loathed. It can be shocking or sweet, organic or fluorescent. It is the first symbol of identity for half this country. And now, it is the subject of the latest exhibition at the Museum at FIT, Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color, as well as a daylong symposium. Could you imagine another shade conducive to hours of discussion by a global panel?
The expansive show is both an ode to a color and a case study on the arbitrary nature of social symbols. It starts with a deep dive into stereotypical western femininity that includes a diorama of girls’ toys and the Ralph Lauren gown that transformed Gwyneth Paltrow into a princess for her 1999 Oscar win. There are iPads showing Kay Thompson’s iconic “Think Pink” scene from Funny Face, rose-colored (Dior) glasses and pink garments in the varied tones that have prevailed in western fashion since the 19th century.
After this reminder of everything that has built our collective associations with the color, pink is approached conceptually, with examples of the erotic, the punk and the political.
One of the most impactful lessons is a cluster of vintage children’s clothing; pink was considered too “strong” for little girls (blue was appropriately “delicate”), until a rather arbitrary flip in the 20th century left us where we are today. But the most striking fashion is certainly that designed for socially-aware adults. Considering pink’s widespread use, there’s room for the Duran Lantink pants of Janelle Monae “Pynk” fame, shocking pink Schiaparelli and Yves Saint Laurent and so much Comme des Garçons, all wholly incompatible with the timid, delicate females of 1950s fame. There’s Jeremy Scott inspired by Barbie, and Prabal Gurung inspired by a contemporary Indian women’s rights group.
While womenswear reigns, the included menswear is exceptional: suits from Raf Simons for Jil Sander and Kim Jones for Dior Homme, as well as a sweatshirt in Cam’ron’s “Killa pink.”
As for “millennial pink,” the blush hue du jour, there’s only one mention. After all, it’s just one brief chapter in quite a lengthy book.
Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color is on view at the Museum at FIT through January 5, 2019. A symposium on pink will be held October 19, 2018 and is free and open to the public on a first come, first served basis with RSVP.
