For Fall 2020, Georgina Chapman was in a garden state of mind, drawing from the Japanese art of flower arrangement “ikebana” to inject intricate blossoms into her new collection. The terrace behind Ladurée in Soho was transformed into a garden of earthly delights as models sashayed beneath the canopy of Cherry Trees, while the luxuriant foliage overhead provided guests with a brief reprieve from the rain. The 3D blossoms that sprouted up across confectionary ballgowns and voluminous tulle trains that tumbled to the ground looked almost as good as the real thing. Every dress came with its own flower crown or earrings fashioned out of daisies and baby’s breath. The petaled accessories were so convincing, it was reason enough to skip the bouquet.

The spare yet deliberate construction of ikebana wasn’t lost on Chapman. If the floral embellishments evoked frivolity, then the tulle silhouettes readdressed the balance. “Our brides still love our more dramatic pieces,” Chapman said. “But [we’re] now seeing some brides gravitate towards airy fabrics with a lighter composition in mind.”

Transformative separates are another big seller for Marchesa, and Chapman met this desire with whisper-thin layers that added drama without weight. A standout fit-and-flare style with a hand-breaded bodice and a textured skirt was made even frothier when paired with its own tulle shrug. Another A-line dress with a plunging neckline peeked out from underneath a cape coat with billowing sleeves and an organza sash. Though wiped clean of Chapman’s signature florals, save for a corsage at the back, the duchess satin gown with the sheer corseted back perfectly exemplified Marchesa’s romantic aesthetic.