Staged within the Peter B. Lewis Theater at the iconic Guggenheim Museum, Jason Wu’s Fall-Winter 2023 show had an intimate, salon-like feel replete with a circular runway and gorgeous floral displays on the central stage. It was a perfect fit for the designer’s calm and captivating collection, which oozed sophistication and elegance.
“This season, I was captivated by the works of 20th century artist Karl Blossfeldt,” Wu said in his show notes. “His botanical photography had a fragility and strength that is contrasted with a moodiness which prompted me into a cinematic direction. I wanted to push the brands code of confident yet refined elegance with menswear inspired deconstructed tailoring, trimmed with feminine chiffon and lace details.”
Wu zeroed in on stringy dresses – a trend also seen on other runways this season, but his were substantial, tube-like versions, giving some looks an almost industrial vibe in the most positive way. There was nothing about these that read 1920s and that was a good thing. Wu knows his woman well, and he continued to cater to her with a red power jacket over a sheer skirt to gorgeous evening dresses teamed with oversize coats.