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How Queer Experiences Impact Storytelling in Fashion

June 28, 2024

Melquan Ganzy

Society may attempt to erase, shun, and reject queer communities that are misunderstood, fashion leaders are determined to acknowledge, accept, and value their queer identity. Designers like Kallmeyer’s Daniella Kallmeyer, Chromat’s Bex McCharen, and L’Enchanteur’s Dynasty and Soull Ogun have used their experiences to shift and enhance storytelling in design.

Just as queer designers embrace authenticity in their everyday life, all designers should also be confident in who they are, even when they are faced with consequences of societal and cultural norms.

CFDA asked each: “In what ways has your queer identity impacted how your consumers see and experience your brand’s story?”

Below, the designers share their influence, culture, and perspectives.

Daniella Kallmeyer

Daniella Kallmeyer, KALLMEYER

“I am very fortunate that my queer identity has had both a public and inherent impact on my brand experience and messaging. For the queer community, this has been an opportunity to design pieces and create styling which resonate with individuals who, for so long did not feel seen or could not see themselves in luxury, well-fitting, comfortable clothes that do not uphold gender binaries.

Designing through that lens and my personal perspective (and frankly my own coming out story and style journey) — the warmth, and empathy, and lack of male gaze within our pieces have become a uniquely universal point of connection for customers across every age, demographic, and cultural spectrum.

Kallmeyer is not a queer brand, but it is a queer-owned brand, and that cannot be extracted from my designs. The outcome of designing from the perspective of a queer female designer is unsurprisingly relatable. But the fact that I can embrace it publicly is a privilege I do not take lightly.”

Soull and Dynasty Ogun.

Dynasty and Soull Ogun, L’Enchanteur

Dynasty: “I feel as though our core identity transcends our queer identity in realizing how our mind and complexity works. We look to identify ourselves as individuals, it’s what Soull and I have strived for. The journey we have found and thrive in together best describes what we are pushing through love and fear, especially as we are discovering new parts of ourselves.

Our queerness is a constant endeavor we are always fulfilling, sharing,  and abundantly growing in. When our audience shares space with us, they should encompass the upmost courage as we motivate others to always strive to be yourself and show up as yourself too. And when you do this, you will inspire your bredren to continue strive, thrive, and grab hold of what your desires look and feel like.”

Soull:

“I feel that queer identity is a simple yet complex term to begin with. Queer, for me , consist of a freedom of otherness or the freedom to be other than what has been deemed as ‘normal.’

Though I do not conform to any ‘identity’ which is a catch-22. The juxtaposition of the aspect of queer is the identity of no identity or pushing the limits of the boxes we tend to be born into or adopt.

I think the impact that identity allows the customer to feel free to express themselves and to connect to a world outside and inside of the ‘world’ that has been handed to us. The viewer can see our brand as a key to feeling freedom and a key to create one’s own world and invite others to be part of It, That is the way we create, with a free sense of will and being able to direct that will into a physical thing which connects to an emotion.

My queerness is emotion-based; the emotions of presenting as queer, being seen as free, and establishing our brand in a world where my queer may not be highlighted as much. My queer is mindful and direct as well as fluid and malleable. The goal is to allow the viewer to witness the act of unbecoming to become.”

Bex McCharen at the American Express and CFDA ‘Express Yourself’ Pride Panel in June 2023. (Photo by Theo Wargo/Getty Images)

Bex McCharen, CHROMAT

“Being queer and trans and designing for queer and trans people means there is a higher level of understanding, lived experience and empathy infused into the design process and the way we communicate with our consumers. The babes who wear Chromat get it, and the girls who do not, do not get it!

But in all seriousness, I do not think we would have been able to create such a holistically inclusive experience when designing swimwear for girls who do not tuck if we had not collaborated with Tourmaline on styles that she wanted to personally wear as a trans femme. And as I explore my trans masculinity, what feels good to wear is evolving. As a fashion designer, I am always responding to what makes myself and my extended queer community feel comfortable, supported and confident through garments.”

Becca McCharen
Bex McCharen
Daniella Kallmeyer
Dynasty Ogun
L’Enchanteur
Soull Ogun

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