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BLACK HISTORY MONTH

How Dress and Spirituality Inspires Black Women in Fashion

February 27, 2024

Melquan Ganzy

In America, the Black baptist church is a spiritual space for people who are motivated to uphold themselves with dignity and elevate their values and moral compasses guided by their faith, praise, testimonies, and gratitude. To that end, it is tradition for Black baptist church members, especially women, to dress up in their “Sunday’s best” for every worship service as a way to honor not only God but also themselves.

For many Black designers, this Sunday’s best tradition has inspired and influenced their brand identities. Oftentimes, it is the spiritual morals passed down from generations of Black church mothers like Suffragist and Religious Leader Nannie Helen Burroughs and Legendary Gospel Singer Mahalia Jackson, who pivoted how Black women were overlooked and committed to advocating for social justice during women’s suffrage and the Civil Right Movement.

“Watching the women who raised me is why I am a fashion designer today,” Charles Harbison said, pointing to ‘their joie de vivre and sexual confidence contrasting with the blue-collar reality of their lives…their armor and shield, sword and dagger, in the form of suits, clutches, earrings, and sheaths. The mutability and dimensionality of those women are driving forces behind Harbison Studio’s brand identity.”

Mother-and-daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka’s House of Aama is an experiential brand rooted in the Black experience.

“We explicitly focus our research, archival analysis and data collection on the examination of the lives and lived experiences of Black people,” they said.

“How Black women have presented themselves historically and in the present time is a continuous focus of our brand including Sunday’s best dress presentations. Black women have continued to find a way out of no way — the Sunday best dressing practices of our culture are an example of [that]. No matter what the week presents in terms of opportunities and challenges, on Sunday’s, Black women put their best foot forward, dress their best, hold their heads up, praise their ancestors, and meet life head on.”

Whether it be ministry or fashion, Black women have been denied prominent roles while men occupy the majority of the leadership positions. In her “The Negro Woman” speech, Nannie Helen Burrough spoke about how Black women were the most neglected and disrespected person in America On January 15, 1923. She focused on gender equality for women within the church as she led social protest, while advocating for the rights of Black people.

“Black women have always uniquely focused on our presentation and how we present ourselves as a key component of our identity from ancient times until today,” Rebecca and Akua added. “In fashion, Black women have claimed a space for themselves that is not costuming but putting on display a unique aspect of our culture where we come and represent.  As Black women founders of a fashion label it is in our ethos to represent Black women and continue to advocate for our unique perspectives and voices to be heard.”

There is no doubt that Black women have resiliently been the backbone of our nation as the caregivers and nurturers, supporting all people and carrying the burdens of many, it is embedded in America’s history. During the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s, Mahalia Jackson touched leaders including Martin Luther Kings Jr., who often leaned on Jackson’s heartwarming voice to uplift his spirits. Not only did her voice in “How I Got Over” bring the masses comfort but also she contributed tremendous donations in support of the movement.

Black women are recognized for their innate resilience as they rarely wear what they are going through on their sleeves. Instead, they are wearing innovative styles, adorning their bodies in unique dress, and presenting the best version of themselves. Today more than ever, designers are encouraged to return the favor, advocating for Black women’s influential presence, craft, and style.

“Women across cultures have used fashion to assert and fortify themselves for generations. That is also inherent to almost any identity that experiences marginalization,” Harbison said. “I am blessed to come from a lineage of Black women who are particularly familiar with the power of colors, body positivity, and glamour. I will always advocate for that, because that is also me.”

Since Ancient Africa, from The Ancient African Queen Nefertiti’s headdress to Black women’s extraordinary church hats and distinctive hairstyles, Black women have reigned as the influencers of fashion. Black women have indeed leveraged fashion and innovation to create their own lane and visibility in marginalized communities in America.

Fashion can be a platform to reimagine how the world sees and understands your existence. It can also be a political yet expressive passion that brings light to Black women’s innate ability to keep pressing forward within and outside of fashion.

As Rebecca and Akua put it, “The ability of Black women to keep pressing forward and making a way out of no way is a spiritual principle. It is that Black girl magic that Black women are uniquely in possession of and attuned to. It exists as a principle outside of fashion and enters into all spaces that Black women enter.”

As Harbison puts it, “I have been inspired by Black women taking artistic license to write their own narrative through fashion and beauty. I want for me and all that comes from me to embolden every one of my customers to do the same. I believe I exist to create art and beauty in the lives of people, and the women of my youth, my first loves, were my first muses.”

Black women’s crowns, not just their innovative hairstyles and extraordinary church hats, but also their beautiful minds and intellects, stimulate fashion culturally.

“Our crowns as Black women, such as our hairstyles and church hats, represent our capstones as women, especially when  speaking where we center our spiritual energy and manifest our realities,” Rebecca and Akua stated.

Still today, Black women continue to discover ways to louden their identities through dress in their everyday lives. As we celebrate Black History Month, we highlight Black women working in fashion in New York City, who are pressing forward with faith and courage, dressed in their best fashions.

Ashley Brooks in a color-block Harbison dress, Harwell Godfrey jewelry, and Keeyahri shoes.

Ashley Brooks, Vice President, Michele Marie PR

“Seeing beautiful Black women show up and show out in these gorgeous two-piece suits, dresses, bold hats, and statement accessories always sparked my interest. My spirituality has always been consistent in my life as has fashion.

My love for fashion developed through church at an early age. Today, I am that woman who goes to church in her Sunday best not only to look my best but also to feel my best.

My spirituality has translated through the ways in which I present myself in fashion. When those are combined, they allow me to share my unique perspectives and truly express how I feel within, especially when wearing Black owned brands.”

Victoria in a Hanifa dress, and Harwell Godfrey and Ten Wilde jewelry.

Victoria Grass, Research Analyst, Condé Nast

“Clothing has been my creative outlet since childhood. Growing up in a Southern Christian household, self-presentation was always an integral part of our spirituality. As I have grown, this connection between fashion and spirituality persists — fashion is how I practice self-love and show appreciation for the vessel that I house.

I try to only purchase things and dress myself in ways that align with who I am. Whether it’s shopping from more Black-owned brands or shopping more sustainably, I want my clothing to not only look good on me, but I want it to make me feel good by wearing it.”

Pierrah in a yellow Christopher John Rogers suit, Harwell Godfrey jewelry, and Brandon Blackwood taxi heels.

Pierrah Hilarie, Digital Influencer

I grew up in the Christian church so dressing up every Sunday in our finest pieces was expected. My dad always said it is better to be overdressed, which taught me to always show up as my best self through fashion. Spiritually, when I fully express myself through clothing, I am tapping into my higher self as a creative individual.

My core values and belief systems are based on being more open-minded to individualism so when it comes to fashion. I take joy in experimenting with different aesthetics and not sticking to limiting thoughts on dressing. Similar to spirituality everyone has their own journey to achieving personal style, and what I love about fashion is the sense of community it creates.

Devin in a Frederick Anderson suit, Ten Wilde jewelry, and hat by Harlem’s Heaven Hats.

Devin Hentz, Fashion Assistant

“My personal style is very playful, with exaggerated portions and lighthearted accessories all with a touch of sensuality. My spiritual practice encourages inner beauty, optimism, and loving connection with other beings. Fashion helps me translate that inner light so that it radiates around me.”

 

Creative Director and Stylist: Melquan Ganzy | @masterganzy

Photographer: Azelion Manuel | @seancmanuel

Makeup Artist: Sadé-Amour Mirabal | @thededream

Akua Shabaka
Black History Month
CFDA Impact
Charles Harbison
House of Aama
Rebecca Henry

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