Over the past few months, the world has transformed at a dizzying pace. We have changed with it, having had the time and space for reflection, new ways of thinking and personal growth. (At least this has been true for those lucky enough to not get sick, and to have the benefit of time.) Everything has changed. Within the fashion industry, one thing has become very clear: we need to change our systems and ways of doing business now. Fashion can lead the way. We are meant to be one of the most forward industries. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, before the crumbling of retail, before 30 million people became unemployed, before unhinged politicians, and before this new, critical movement for civil rights, the cracks were already showing. This moment is the much-needed catalyst into serious and systemic change. We are right in the middle of a cool zone. How will we go down in history? How this time go down in fashion history? Let it be considered.
The Future For Retail
After this time of sweeping retail closures and a retraction in consumer demand for fashion, we will emerge on the other side of this very different. The woke new consumer will demand more from the brands they buy in terms of transparency, environmental impact, and social responsibility. They will buy better and buy less. Consumers will be even more comfortable with online shopping, an uptick in that segment we are already seeing. They will be more comfortable with curbside pickup, and maybe in using personal shoppers. For brands and retailers that can offer a strong edit and quality product, I would see an expansion of their business. Brands will need to focus less on volume and scaling and more on higher margins, relationships and personalization. I know first-hand, having run retail establishments (pre-COVID-19) for 12 years, that the normalized full-price sell through numbers were simply not high enough. Insufficient performance metrics became the status quo and led to perpetual, irresponsible markdowns, too many deliveries, and an over-supply of merchandise. This systemic disregard for quality and standards contributed to the training, by us in the industry, of bad consumer behavior. It became a race to the bottom. New revenue streams will be essential for brands and retailers to explore now.
What Will Be In Fashion
After a recession, with its far-reaching impact of historic unemployment, flashy fashion will of course go out of style. Au revoir logos. Minimalism, investment pieces and quiet luxury seem the obvious new direction. However, I’m sure there will also be a demand for celebratory fashion to mark the occasion of reconnection and community. How excited are we all for future dinner parties? Let’s face it, we miss people and we will celebrate everything. Those moments will call for expressive fashion pieces that allow us out of our tired loungewear and back into society with glamour and beauty, just not too much. Excess and frivolity may finally become passe. After this time, I want my wardrobe to be chic, but smart.
Considered choices will be the name of the game. Less will be more. Editors and fashion experts with a clear point of view will need to guide their audiences and provide direction. Professional shoppers will create value for their clients by advising on cohesive and thoughtful wardrobes that reflect their clients’ values and lifestyles – not just trends. Poor quality, trendy pieces will not be what educated consumers want after this, as they will likely put their dollars into their values, more and more. The discriminating fashion brands exposed by Black Lives Matter movement have been quickly dropped by large retailers. This swift response signals a sea change into values-led shopping, which should be exciting for us all. Let’s support the designers we love.
A Call to Visionary Leaders
Fashion leaders need to step up to the plate and lead the way now more than ever. Waste, diversity, and transparency need to be addressed by every company working within the fashion system. Period. No one has said it’s fun living and working through a cool zone, but by taking a step outside of it, and considering how this time will be regarded historically, we can all do better. Brands need to know who they are, what they stand for, back it up, and then speak loudly about it. Corporate greed and systemic negligence delivered us to where we are now. The silver lining is that we have hit rock bottom and we can collectively rebuild to a better place for everyone, and for the planet.
And while industry leaders and organizations should lead the way, educate, and commit- they also need to listen. Younger generations and marginalized groups have a lot to say. Real conversations in fashion will be beneficial for all. Relationships and community matter more than ever, and values-led companies will achieve this naturally. Sustainability, responsible production practices, and promotion of diversity for BIPOC, women and all marginalized groups should be taken seriously by corporate heads and accredited in a systemic way by the industry. (*Is there a universal certification or labeling system that can be set to distinguish socially responsible fashion companies in the way of LEED-Certified has worked for Architecture, or Certified Organic has easily marked food and meat for us?) Now is the time for leaders to hire in-house or contract diversity and inclusion training professionals, and sustainability experts to establish best practices and accountability for their companies. These seem to me critical new roles. Investment for this can easily come out of some influencer marketing budget, which feels a bit dated to me already. Brands can use their social channels and stores for vital community building and education. Real change will be rewarded in the long run.
