Early 20th-century minstrel shows and cartoons caricatured and mocked Black men’s style, distorting what they did not understand to reinforce harmful stereotypes and suppress liberation.

Traditional male attire was designed to embody “maleness,” but dandyism, often mischaracterized as effeminate, reframed notions of gender and sexuality. Black dandyism was mocked, misrepresented, and emasculated in an effort to suppress the power and liberation it symbolized within a race-driven patriarchal society.

Today, fashion leaders and cultural icons have reclaimed and redefined imagery of Blackness and dandyism and aligned the Black narrative and innate ability to turn everything we touch into gold – like our melanated skins when it glistens in the sun.

“Dandyism is both style and self-presentation, existing on the fringes while exceeding the norm. Though coined in the 19th century and linked to Beau Brummell, the practice of refined self-presentation predates the term,” Darnell-Jamal Lisby, fashion historian and assistant curator of The Cleveland Museum of Art, said. “Black dandyism aligns with traditional dandyism but carries an organic self-expression that transcends societal norms. In the African American context, it began with respectability in politics before evolving into a revolutionary statement. Figures like Booker T. Washington and W.E.B. Du Bois used refined imagery to challenge racist narratives. By the 1920s, Black men reinterpreted Eurocentric fashion through their own lens, blending respectability with rebellion, a dynamic that continues to shape Black menswear today.”

Fashion historian Dr. Jonathan Michael Square, who is part of the advisory committee for the Superfine: Tailoring Black Style exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, defines Black dandyism as a strategic use of clothing to challenge racial hierarchies and assert autonomy. By reinterpreting European dress with individuality and flair, Black dandies defied the notion that refinement and mobility were exclusive to whiteness, using fashion to reclaim dignity in exclusionary societies.

“Being a Black dandy means embracing fashion as a lifestyle – diverse, expansive, and deeply expressive,” says Tianni Graham, a fashion historian and a Principal Archivist at Thom Browne. “Throughout history, Black men’s agency has been policed, but as they gained freedom, fashion became a powerful tool of rebellion, asserting individuality within imposed structures in ways that could not be ignored.”

Sartorial fashion has long been a tool of liberation, dignity, and resistance for Black men. “Post-emancipation, fashion became a way for Black men to claim space in a society that sought to deny them full citizenship,” Square noted. “The zoot suit era of the 1930s and 1940s, for instance, was a moment of radical self-fashioning. The exaggerated silhouettes and luxurious fabrics of zoot suits were bold statements of pride, defying laws and racial violence that sought to suppress Black visibility.

“More recently,” he added, “Hip hop style – once dismissed – has reshaped global fashion with Black men dictating trends rather than merely participating in them. Think A$AP Rocky or Colman Domingo.”

Of zoot suits, Lisby said, “Initially, they were not a political act, but became one when mainstream society criminalized the look. Black men’s bodies have long been policed, and deviating from white norms only heightened that scrutiny. Yet, they embraced the style as their own.

“Throughout history, Black style has been a means of communication and power navigation,” Lisby added. “It forges cultural expressions independent of Eurocentric definitions. Black dandyism, in particular, carves out identity – at times rejecting Eurocentric ideals and at others existing within or alongside them. This refined self-styling conveys Black agency and consciousness.”

Today, we celebrate the sophisticated and innovative dressing practices that champion self-expression in fashion, film, and music. Icons like André Leon Talley and Dapper Dan paved the way, while contemporary figures such as Colman Domingo, André 3000, Pharrell, and A$AP Rocky continue their legacy, defying traditional narratives with dignity, creativity, and resilience.

Colman Domingo’s impeccable style, for example, has redefined Hollywood’s approach to menswear. His 2024 Met Gala look, custom-designed by Willy Chavarria, epitomized his signature aesthetic: structural tailoring softened by fluidity, creating a striking balance between hard and soft, heavy and light. This duality not only reflects the interplay of masculinity and femininity but also reestablishes the connection between Hollywood glamour and luxury fashion.

Musicians like André 3000 and Big Boi of OutKast, along with Pharrell, have long challenged conventions in rap and hip-hop culture, making an unapologetic embrace of fashion a defining part of their artistic identity. From plaid suits and multicolored ties to extraordinary hats and bold, vibrant ensembles, their fearless approach to style has pushed creative boundaries, paving the way for artists like A$AP Rocky, Tyler, the Creator, and YG to express themselves with similar freedom.

Together, as men, fathers, artists, and cultural visionaries, they have reshaped the narrative of Black masculinity within a Western, patriarchal society.

Today, Pharrell, a pillar of both hip-hop and streetwear, continues the legacy of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, seamlessly intertwining streetwear elements with luxury fashion, further solidifying its place within the highest echelons of style.

Historically, such contributions to fashion had been overlooked or erased. Square added that advocacy is essential in securing recognition for Black designers, stylists, and cultural producers like Dapper Dan, Patrick Kelly, and contemporary visionaries such as Pharrell and Tyler the Creator.

Graham underscored the importance of preserving Black sartorial history. “Style is a personal currency without legal ownership, often leading to misplaced credit,” Graham said. “Proper documentation, institutional collaboration, and Black scholarship are crucial to safeguarding these contributions.”

Through storytelling, fashion leaders, historians, and stylists will continue reclaiming and celebrating Black dandyism’s rich legacy, ensuring its power to challenge norms, foster self-expression, and taking up space endures.

“Whether through the strategic self-presentation of enslaved people, the opulence of Harlem Renaissance figures, or the rise of streetwear into high fashion, Black men’s resilience in style has always been a means of asserting agency,” Square said. “Highlighting this history ensures that future generations understand their place in an ongoing legacy of resistance and reinvention.