Danielle Frankel presented her Fall 2020 Bridal collection with a debut runway show that defied conventions, much like her directional designs.

In a rather short span of time, Danielle Hirsch, of Danielle Frankel, has developed a reputation for creating wedding designs that elegantly toy with preconceived notions of “bridal” and “fashion.” After all, aside from her Fall 2020 collection’s mostly white and ivory color palette, you might not know the lineup was quote-unquote bridal simply by looking at it. So when Hirsch staged her debut runway show at The Public during Bridal Fashion Week, many were eager to see how Hirsch would upend the upended clichéd notions of bridal fashion shows where flowers, frills, and flutes of Champagne are all but standard.

Hirsch called on hip-hop and classical pianist Chloe Flower—who performed with Cardi B at the 2019 Grammys—to set the mood. The collaboration spawned via social media when the musician discovered @daniellefrankelstudio on Instagram and promptly slid into her DMs to express her love of the brand. Which makes Flower just the latest Danielle Frankel fan to live for her feed filled with looks that are far too cool to reserve for bridal.

Since launching the brand in 2017, Hirsch has amassed a near-cult following of modern brides, catering to their growing desire for a wedding wardrobe that rises above the fray. From edgy separates for wedding-adjacent events to big-day dresses that play with the über-feminine and hyper-masculine, Hirsch has carved out space for herself and made headlines along the way. This past June, she designed the hand-crocheted, midriff-baring cocktail number that Zoë Kravitz wore to her wedding shower in Paris. Hirsch was also recently named the first bridal designer to participate in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

When she presented her Fall 2020 collection, there wasn’t a princess dress or a mermaid skirt in sight, and it’s safe to say that no one missed them. “Everybody wants something different, and everybody feels like they’re the bride who is different from the others,” Hirsch said. The difference, according to Hirsch, is all in how you wear it. She credited her cutting-edge styling, and equally fresh casting, for giving the new lineup its modern verve.

The 1920s-style fisherman’s turtleneck tucked into high-waisted boxing shorts, for instance, will be a hit among the brides looking to go more relaxed at the rehearsal dinner. While the nubby sweater dress topped with the metallic Madonna-inspired cone bra will appeal to those who want to make a splash at the post-wedding brunch. “Peel off the bra, and you have a totally different look,” Hirsch said. “It’s all about those cool little details that don’t really belong on a wedding dress that can be used to make the look your own.”

There were also fantastic outerwear options in the mix, which is all-too-rare in the realm of bridal where “naked” dresses have become the norm. Hirsch cut an ankle-skimming trench coat out of découpé organza with lace appliqué on top—a technique that also informed a boxy oversized blazer paired with transparent trousers to match. For brides looking to get extra mileage out of either statement layers come spring, Hirsch suggested letting the jacket take the place of a cocktail dress and adding a simple slip underneath. After all, if there’s anyone in favor of upending convention, it’s the Danielle Frankel bride.