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Ana Khouri’s London

September 16, 2019

Nina Jones

 

Visitors to London will have the chance to experience an immersive display of Brazilian-born designer Ana Khouri’s elegant, sculptural jewelry in a selling exhibition that opens towards the end of London Fashion Week. “Ana Khouri: Jewels as Art” will bow at Phillips auction house’s Berkeley Square galleries this Tuesday, September 17, with Khouri describing the show as “a full retrospective of my work.”

The exhibition will showcase over 65 pieces of Khouri’s jewelry designs alongside the sculptures that serve as studies for her creations (Khouri’s journey in design began as a painter and sculptor). The London exhibit follows Khouri’s 2018 show, “Jewels Now – Ana Khouri” that the designer staged at Phillips in New York in October. Spotlighting designs from throughout Khouri’s career since her house’s launch in 2013, the London exhibition will also debut new pieces created specifically for the show.

 

 

“One of my latest design obsessions is volume,” Khouri said of these new pieces. “It is hard to add volume and…balance weight, but I really wanted a new challenge. It took months to perfect the effect in my Paris workshop, but the result – immaculate tubes of hollow white gold set with pavé diamonds that wrap around the ear, finger, or neck – create impact without weighing down the wearer.” Among these designs is the Delphine Ear Cuff, composed of delicate, diamond-embellished white gold spirals that gather around the ear for a spare, finely-crafted take on opulence.

Having lived in London in the past – Khouri attended the city’s Central Saint Martins college a decade ago – she’s excited to explore its diverse neighborhoods anew. “Being back in the city with the exhibition is a particular thrill,” she noted. “For me, every [London] neighborhood has its own particular charm, but I do feel very comfortable [in] Notting Hill.”

 

Ana Khouri: Jewels as Art

 

And what about her must-sees in the city? “The art scene is spectacular,” she said. “The Serpentine, the V&A, White Cube, Gagosian and all the younger galleries…there is a very interesting mix, and it all comes together so well.” The designer also finds London’s theater “inspiring.” “Last time I was here, I went to see The Lehman Trilogy and I loved it,” she says.

Khouri also plans to visit the River Café in Hammersmith, “my favorite restaurant” alongside retail emporium Dover Street Market, and 5 Carlos Place, the grand brick-and-mortar destination of Matchesfashion.com.

But before taking some downtime, Khouri is looking forward to unveiling the exhibition, which she said will bring “visual…and tactile sensations to the fore.” Alongside showcasing her sculptures – “some artists draw, others sketch, I sculpt”– the designer will exhibit a film that illuminates the process behind creating the jewelry designs.

“Being seen as an artist and being given this space to create, where people can fully experience my work, is what makes me most excited,” said Khouri.

The exhibition runs from September 17 through 19 at Phillips, 30 Berkeley Square, London W1.

 

 

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Ana Khouri: Jewels as Art

Ana Khouri
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