Amsale design director Margo Lafontaine is getting technical – in more ways than one. For her Spring 2020 Bridal collection, presented Friday in New York, Lafontaine explored traditional couture techniques and gave them that signature Amsale modern spin. Fittingly, the moment also marked the debut of Amsale x You — a new digital platform that uses technology to transform the experience of shopping for a wedding dress online. Amsale opened up its rich archives to deliver a variety of silhouettes, styles, and fabrics to choose from via an interactive tool that lets brides see the look in 3D. Showgoers, too, were given a visual: Real brides-to-be walked the runway during the finale, each dressed in a custom Amsale x You look they designed themselves.
In keeping with the brand’s 32-year history as a bridal fashion innovator, Lafontaine took a more technical approach when creating the new collection. The designer moved away from traditional lace to explore other ways of building texture. The beauty was in the details. For a ball gown with full sleeves, Lafontaine traded lace for tulle, then added clear bugle beads for a touch of shimmer. There were also statement trains that emulated the look of lace with unexpected materials. Case in point, an A-line dress with a full skirt featuring abstract florals crafted from a fil coupé made for the collection.
Even the more fabric-heavy silhouettes here had an impossible sense of lightness. A silk faille fit-and-flare gown boasted a whimsical overskirt in double organza, creating that mix of opacity and sheerness Amsale is known for. A sand-colored halter dress, which Lafontaine joked was made from “about a mile of sheared Mariano Fortuny–style tulle,” practically floated down the runway. “It’s so much fabric but looks light when you put it on.” It’s like technology: Sometimes you have to see it to believe it.