Day 5 is the hump, the middle, the style-studded obstacle everyone wants to get passed, but now, the end of New York’s Fashion Week is sadly in sight. Oh, but what a glorious hump it was. There were more great designer shows on this day than any other during this 8-day week. Even we were overwhelmed and humbled.
There was a very flight attendant-y feel to Zac Posen’s, particularly if that airline went supersonic to space, but beyond the hype, this collection of exuberantly colored dresses felt very grown up. Carolina Herrera, on the other hand, injected a youthful feel into her collection with short shorts and dresses, while also working her show-stopping gowns. Making real fashion for intelligent women, Zero + Maria Cornejo offered up pieces that were a study in asymmetry and all easy to slip into. Working with a lot of black, because it sells, Carlos Miele also inserted shots of hot sunny colors in short, short silhouettes. With almost every member of the “Real Housewives” casts from the east coast in her front row, Jill Stuart had a lot going on, which went for her Cher-inspired collection, too. Tracy Reese chose cheer and color over gloom and doom, which we appreciate any day, especially when it means Tracy’s short, swingy dresses. Donna Karan’s been busy layering and draping what look to be handkerchiefs, but really it was a great collection of Donna doing what she does best – manipulate fabric to create shapes that flatter the form.
Working with waves of fabric and seams that connote movement, Thakoon’s collection was full of prints and modern in an edgy way. Choosing to be special and precious, J. Mendel’s Gilles Mendel used tulle and chiffon as his medium to sculpt beautiful flowers and placed pleats into gowns. Chris Benz understands that sometimes, fashion should simply give the wearer pleasure and his Crayola rainbow of a collection was short, sweet and full of joy. Super luxe fabrics accented with rich metallics establish the fact that accessories wiz Devi Kroell also knows her way around ready-to-wear, which was surprisingly sophisticated. Douglas Hannant’s softly hued gowns, dresses and suits reminded of a classic garden, while his uptown styling will appeal to the socialite in all of us. Inspired by the machismo and emotion of Latino men, Michael Bastian’s menswear combined his sharp tailoring with relaxed, confident styling and a hint of fun in camouflage. Marc Jacobs’s top-knotted ladies were ruffled in every which way, but it was the jackets that made us pay attention to this subtly colored, optimistic collection.
Inspired by “rust, oxidized copper and a beautiful American decay,” CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Patrik Ervell’s menswear was simply styled, almost shabbily chic, in traditional fabrics, some with a hint of metal woven through.