Saving the best for last is always a good way to end an extra long week. And to many, showing the established triumvirate of Ralph, Calvin and Tommy on the last day of New York’s fashion week is stacking the deck in the favor of great fashion. Not surprisingly, all of the designers who showed on Thursday were pretty darn spectacular.
William Rast’s Justin Timberlake and Trace Ayala, with the help of Johan and Marcella Lindeberg, offered a mix of military inspired pieces mixed with model-chic slim bits. A box of rich chocolates and its luxe packaging inspired Marc Bouwer’s deep hued collection of red carpet worthy dresses and gowns. Visiting flower markets across the world through his collection of floral prints, Ralph Lauren tempered the feminine with tailored tweeds and great shearling pieces. Isaac Mizrahi’s whimsical romp through the inspiration of Central Park resulted in sequined parkas, strapless dresses of quilted outerwear fabrics and weatherproof clear plastic handbags. Marcella Lindberg’s Paris 68 was a frock-tastic collection of goth/rock fringe-y dresses paired with tailored jackets packet with attitude. Stephen Burrows’ offerings were brightly colored and full of joie de vivre, like the man himself, with a long burgundy dress one of the best pieces.
Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa, the pioneer of sculpted and shaped pieces, let his collection evolve to a more refined state which included molded strong shoulders and molten gowns. Gorgeous patchworked furs opened J. Mendel’s collection, but the frothy little gowns he’s so good at were like icing on this cake. Receiving a bona fide standing ovation, Naeem Khan’s triumphant collection was awash with incredibly intricate beading with a rock ‘n’ roll edge. Closing out fashion week and the era at the Bryant Park tents, Tommy Hilfiger’s collection was celebratory in feel, and with the help of consultant Peter Som, the pieces, described as “preppy with a pop” were youthful.
Tommy’s was the last show in Bryant Park and in closing the end of an era he thanked past CFDA President Stan Herman and IMG’s Fern Mallis for having the vision 18 years ago to centralize the shows. See you next season at the tents at Lincoln Center.