Michael Kors is back in the saddle as one of the greatest designers of American sportswear out there with his collection that included amazing knit pieces, perfectly tailored suits and jackets and outerwear pieces that take your breath away. Knowing exactly what her customer wants, Nanette Lepore served it up – kicky little dresses, sequin encrusted T-shirts and great shearling and wool coats and didn’t miss an opportunity to push her Save the Garment Center message. Douglas Hannant brought graffiti and the 1980s to the social set by using small prints and graphic ideas borrowed from the street, though his silhouettes were straight from “Dynasty.”
Also channeling the 1980s at least for hair and make-up was Oscar de la Renta who offered up wildly colorful day dress with tons of embellishment and mostly tall columns for evening. Designing for the woman who is not quite into disco, but is not quite into punk, Phillip Lim’s 3.1 collection walked a fine line with modern short shorts, great body-skimming dresses and a lame tuxedo jacket. Milly’s Michelle Smith chose classic silhouettes like the pea coat and a short skirt suit and made them her signature for fall. Marchesa’s style of little evening dress just keeps getting more intricate with designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman working that fabric into stars and pinwheels beyond their signature flowers. Reed Krakoff’s inaugural sportswear collection was a fascinating study on long silhouettes, luxe fabrics and skins and making the accessories more than count.
Inspired by the American Arts and Crafts movement, Anna Sui infused new patterns into her brand of sexy, swingy and short American sportswear. Trees inspired Brian Reyes’ long and lean looks, but his best looks were the detailed bits borrowed from professional tree climbers for skirts and jackets. Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered their woman a sexy collection of well-tailored shorts, skirts and jackets and for evening, little draped bubble dresses.