From the Mercedes Benz tents to MAC at Milk and everywhere in between New York’s Fashion Week (Fall ’10) started on a somber note, with the news of Alexander McQueen’s untimely passing reaching attendees at some of the first shows of the week. So while the mood was one of quiet reflection, the fashion being shown was some of the strongest creatively we’ve seen in seasons. Perhaps there’s a quiet optimism, and a new-found creativity, emerging in the wake of the economic meltdown? We think so.
BCBG by Max Azria was a collection of really wearable dresses, pants and shirts that have a very modern edge to them and are decorated with modern, graphic art touches. Organic by John Patrick had a full on London vibe to it with all the tweed and cheeky touches like high-waisted boy shorts, skinny cropped pants and sweet dresses. Richard Chai’s secondary line, Richard Chai LOVE took all the good cues from the 1980s, showing feminine long tube skirts and floral prints layered with cool military-inspired jackets and vests.
Tina Lutz & Marcia Patmos’ signature collection is chock full of PC fibers and all natural dyes, so you can feel good while looking good in their chic and urbane sweaters. Rachel Comey’s prints ranged from small to large in colors that run the gamut from subtle tan to bold teal blue, while the rest of the collection had a real lightness to it. Chado Ralph Rucci’s small venue was allowed his followers to see his amazing details, like burned ostrich feathers captured in mesh packets, up close. Vena Cava, by Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock, was a collection of sleek black pieces that were really very sophisticated, the long dresses in particular, for this young duo.
While Yigal Azrouel’s short dresses were chic, it was his sleek pant suits and trouser combinations that looked so fresh, particularly when paired with his luxe sweaters. Wayne Lee’s namesake collection was packed with slouchy pieces – pants, long shirts and relaxed jackets – done mainly in knit, but she revved it up here and there with the addition of leather and fur. Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s Rag & Bone stand-alone women’s show was a first and appropriately packed and layered with their best tweedy men’s wear for women collection yet. Jason Wu’s runway was the longest one we’ve seen (and was pink) – all the better to see his fabulous sculpted tulle dresses and gowns in full-on movement. Cynthia Rowley took on volume with puffers — for coats and smart accessories – and fringes for everything else, including a couple of dresses to die for. Jenni Kayne’s take on an equestrian’s wardrobe was a concise 15-look collection that included great slim trousers, leather sheath dresses and the all-important jackets.
Doo. Ri went glittery – on the model’s lips that spilled onto the shoulders in crystal and down the sides of many of her pieces that had all the subtle movement she’s known for. Nicole Miller’s woman has become an urban warrior wearing loads of fitted black sheaths, layered up with legwarmers, leggings and loads of leather bits.Inspired by “Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs,” Swaim and Christina Hutson’s relaunched Generra was a colorful, playful ode to the brand’s identity with pull-on stretch Henley dresses, cargo pants and full sweaters.Inspired by the shapes of the Japanese designers, Costello Tagliapietra worked their magic draping into sometimes off balance silhouettes in gorgeous desert colors.